Introduction
Once you’ve mastered the basics, knitting patterns start introducing a whole new set of terms. Suddenly there are decreases, short rows, cables, blocking, and instructions that seem much less straightforward than knit and purl.
The good news is that these techniques aren’t anywhere near as intimidating as they sound. Most intermediate knitting skills are simply clever ways of changing the shape, texture or fit of your knitting.
Here we explain some of the most common intermediate knitting terms in plain English, with how they will appear in patterns shown in brackets, so you can tackle more adventurous projects with confidence.
Shaping your knitting
These techniques help create curves, sleeves, necklines and fitted garments.
Increase (inc): An increase creates one or more extra stitches in your knitting. Increases are used whenever a project needs to get wider, such as sleeves, shawls or the body of a jumper. There are many different increase methods, but they all achieve the same goal: adding stitches.
Decrease (dec): A decrease removes stitches from your knitting, making it narrower. Decreases are used for shaping necklines, sleeves, hats and garment waists. Like increases, there are several different methods.
Knit two together (k2tog): One of the most common decreases. You knit two stitches together as though they were one, reducing your stitch count by one. It creates a decrease that leans slightly to the right.
Slip, slip, knit (ssk): Another common decrease. Two stitches are slipped before being knitted together. This creates a decrease that leans to the left and is often paired with k2tog for symmetrical shaping.
Make one (M1): A popular increase method. Instead of knitting into an existing stitch, you create a new stitch from the strand of yarn that runs between two stitches.
Shaping: A general term used whenever increases or decreases are added to change the shape of your knitting. Garments rely heavily on shaping to create a comfortable fit.
Building texture and pattern
These techniques add visual interest to your knitting.
Ribbing: A stretchy fabric created by alternating knit and purl stitches, often written as k1, p1 or k2, p2. Ribbing is commonly used on cuffs, necklines and hems because it helps knitted garments hold their shape, prevents the garment from rolling, and is stretchy.
Cable: A decorative technique where groups of stitches cross over one another to create twisting, rope-like patterns. Although cables look impressive, they are often much easier than they appear.
Cable needle: A small extra needle used to temporarily hold stitches while working a cable. Some knitters use a specially shaped cable needle, others use a double-pointed needle, and some just use the needles they are already working with.
Lace knitting: A style of knitting that uses carefully placed yarn overs and decreases to create decorative holes and openwork patterns. Lace can range from simple eyelets to highly intricate designs.
Texture pattern: Any stitch pattern that creates a raised or textured surface rather than a smooth fabric. Examples include moss stitch, seed stitch and basketweave patterns.
Understanding garment patterns
These are terms you’ll often encounter when knitting clothing.
Ease: The difference between your body measurements and the finished size of a garment. Positive ease means the garment is larger than your body for a relaxed fit. Negative ease means it is smaller and stretches to fit, such as many socks and fitted hats.
Finished measurements: The dimensions of the completed project after knitting. These measurements help you choose the correct size and understand how the finished item will fit.
Size grading: The process of adjusting a pattern to create multiple sizes. Most garment patterns provide instructions for several sizes within the same pattern.
Yoke: The upper section of a garment that connects the body and sleeves. In many jumpers, the yoke includes decorative shaping or colourwork.
Sleeve cap: The curved top section of a sleeve that fits into the armhole of a garment.
Working in different ways
These terms and techniques often appear in more advanced projects.
Circular needles: Needles joined together with a flexible cable. They can be used to knit in the round or to hold a large number of stitches when knitting flat.
Double-pointed needles (DPNs): Short needles with points at both ends, commonly used for knitting small tubes such as socks, mittens and hat crowns.
Magic loop: A technique for knitting small circumferences using a long circular needle instead of double-pointed needles.
Short rows: A shaping technique where you turn your work before reaching the end of the row. Short rows create extra fabric in specific areas and are often used for shoulders, sock heels and garment fit adjustments.
Pick up and knit: A method of creating new stitches directly from the edge of existing knitting. Commonly used for neckbands, button bands and sleeves.
Finishing techniques
These terms appear once the knitting itself is complete.
Blocking: The process of washing or dampening finished knitting and shaping it to the correct dimensions while it dries. Blocking can dramatically improve the appearance of stitches, making them look more consistent and helps garments fit properly as it relaxes the fibres. Any knitter or crocheter will tell you, blocking is magic!
Seaming: Joining separate knitted pieces together using a tapestry needle. Many traditional garment patterns are worked in pieces and assembled at the end.
Mattress stitch: A nearly invisible seaming technique commonly used to join knitted pieces together.
Swatch: A small sample of knitting worked before starting a project. Swatches are used to check gauge, test stitch patterns and see how a yarn behaves before committing to a larger project. You knit a small square in the stitch pattern using the yarn and needles intended to be used in the project. Then you block this in the same way you would block the finish garment, to see how it changes. Once dry you measure a 10cm square, to see if the number of stitches and rows in that square match what is required.
If you’re ready for the next challenge, we’re here.
Learning intermediate knitting techniques can feel like a big step, but every experienced knitter started exactly where you are now. Take your time, try one new skill at a time, and remember that mistakes are part of the learning process, and part of the charm of handmade items.
If a pattern term leaves you scratching your head, get in touch. We love helping knitters grow in confidence and discover what they’re capable of creating.