Introduction
When you're learning to knit, it can feel like everything is written in a foreign language. Cast on. Yarn over. Stocking stitch. What does any of it actually mean?
We are here to help. We've pulled together the 20 most common knitting terms you'll come across as a beginner and explained each one in a simple way, with no assumed knowledge and no unnecessary jargon.
Bookmark this page, come back to it whenever something stumps you, and don't worry if it takes a while for the terminology to really sink in. That's completely normal, and you're in good company.
The essentials:
The basic knitting stitches and techniques every beginner will come across.
Cast on: The very first step in any knitting project. Casting on means getting your initial loops of yarn onto the needle so you have something to knit into. Every project begins with this, so think of it as laying the foundations before you build. Patterns usually recommend a certain type of cast on.
Cast off (or bind off): The finishing step that secures your stitches once you've reached the end of your project, so your knitting doesn't unravel when you take it off the needle. You'll see both terms used, cast off is more common in the UK, and bind off in the US. It means the same thing.
Knit stitch (k): The most basic stitch in knitting. This should be one of the very first things you learn. It creates a neat, smooth fabric made up of V shapes and is the starting point for almost everything you'll ever make. Most beginner patterns are largely or entirely composed of knit stitches.
Purl stitch (p): The second most essential stitch. It looks like a little horizontal bump on the surface of your work.
Garter stitch: This is what you get when you knit every single row without purling at all. The result is a squishy, ridged fabric that looks identical on both sides and doesn't curl at the edges. It's one of the most forgiving textures for beginners because small mistakes are hard to spot, so it's used in a huge number of beginner patterns.
Stocking stitch (st st): The smooth, classic knitted fabric you'll recognise from shop-bought knitwear. Made by alternating a knit row and a purl row. One side is smooth and is usually considered the right (front) side; the other is bumpy and is the wrong (back) side.
Understanding your yarn:
Choosing the right yarn can make a big difference, it is important to understand what you’re working with and how it will impact your project.
Weight: In knitting, "weight" refers to the thickness of the yarn, and is nothing to do with grams on a scale. Common weights from thinnest to thickest are: lace, fingering, DK, aran, and chunky. Thicker yarns knit up faster and are often easier to handle when you're starting out.
Ply: The number of strands twisted together to make the yarn. A 4-ply yarn is relatively fine; an 8-ply (often aran weight) is thicker. It's a rough guide to thickness, but different brands use it slightly differently, so weight is usually a more reliable indicator.
Skein: A loosely wound, twisted loop of yarn which many natural fibre yarns come in. Before knitting with a skein, you'll usually need to wind it into a ball first. It's easier than it sounds, and there's something very satisfying about it.
Ball band: The paper label wrapped around your yarn ball or skein. It tells you everything you need to know: the fibre content, weight, recommended needle size, how many metres or yards are in the ball, and care instructions. Always keep your ball bands until a project is completely finished, you'll want them if you need to buy more yarn.
Dye lot: Yarn is dyed in batches, and the exact shade can vary slightly between batches even within the same colourway. The dye lot number on your ball band identifies which batch your yarn came from. If a project needs more than one ball, try to buy them with the same dye lot number to avoid a visible colour shift in your finished piece.
Reading a pattern:
Knitting patterns can look complicated at first, but once you understand how they’re written, they start to make much more sense.
Pattern: The written instructions that tell you how to make your finished item from start to finish. A knitting pattern will list the yarn and needle sizes you need, explain any stitches involved, and walk you through each step.
Row vs round: Rows are worked back and forth. You knit to the end, turn your work, and come back. Rounds are worked continuously in a circle on circular or double-pointed needles, so you never turn. Projects like hats and socks are usually worked in rounds.
Repeat: When a pattern tells you to repeat a section, it means to work those same instructions again. Repeats are often shown inside brackets or marked with asterisks, for example: *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of row.
Tension / gauge: The number of stitches and rows that fit into a 10cm square of knitting. Patterns are written to a specific tension so the finished item comes out a certain size. Because every knitter is slightly different, it's worth knitting a small test square (called a gauge, or swatch) before you begin, and adjusting your needle size if needed. It takes a short amount of time and can save a lot of frustration later on.
Your tools and techniques:
Knitting isn’t just about yarn and needles. There are a few simple tools and techniques that make everything easier as you go.
Needle size: Needles come in different diameters measured in millimetres such as 4mm, 5mm, and so on. Thicker needles make bigger stitches. Your ball band will recommend a needle size for that yarn, and your pattern will specify what size to use. When they differ, go with what the pattern says.
Darning (Tapestry) needle: A blunt sewing needle with a large eye, used to thread yarn through. It can be used to seam sections together, or to weave in ends at the end of a project.
Stitch marker: A small plastic or metal ring that clips onto your needle to mark a specific point in your knitting, a bit like a bookmark. Used to track where a pattern repeat starts, or to mark the beginning of a round.
Yarn over (yo): Wrapping the yarn around the needle to create an extra stitch. This is used to make decorative eyelets in lace patterns, or simply to increase the number of stitches on your needle.
Weave in ends: The finishing step where you use a tapestry needle to work the loose yarn ends into the back of your knitting. You will have ends from casting on, casting off and joining new balls of yarn. It's the last thing you do before a project is truly finished, and definitely one of the most satisfying parts.
If you are still not sure, we are here.
Patterns can be confusing even when you know the vocabulary. If you're stuck, unsure of what something means, or just want a bit of reassurance, drop us a message. We're a small team who love knitting and genuinely enjoy helping, no question is too basic.