Types of knitting needles

Needles don't get much attention next to yarn. Nobody photographs them, and nobody stands in a shop squishing or testing how they feel. But they're in your hands for the whole time that you're knitting, and there's a big difference between a pair that suits you and a pair that doesn't.

Most people start with whatever came in a kit, or a pair that they've borrowed from a knitter they know. That's fine for a first scarf or getting to know what you're doing. But once you get past that, a pattern might ask for a 4mm circular with a 40cm cable, or a set of five double pointed needles, and suddenly it's a lot less obvious what you're meant to buy.

In this guide, we'll go through the four main types of knitting needle, what each one is good for, the typical gripes with each one, and what we'd suggest buying first if you're just starting out and building up your collection.

Straight needles

These are the classic pair that most people picture when they think of knitting. They have a point at one end and a stopper at the other to stop your stitches from sliding off. Lengths can range from about 25cm up to 40cm, and you knit back and forth, turning your work at the end of every row.

Best for: scarves, blankets, dishcloths, and small garment pieces knitted flat then sewn together.

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Double pointed needles

These are short needles with a point at both ends, sold in sets of four or five, usually 15cm or 20cm long. Your stitches sit across three or four of them in a ring and you knit with the spare one, working your way round. Their name is often shortened to DPNs in patterns.

Best for: socks, mittens, gloves, the crown of a hat, sleeve cuffs. Anything small and tube shaped.

Fixed circular needles

These are two short needle tips that are joined permanently by a flexible cord. Knit round and round without any turns and you get a tube. If you turn at the end of each row, then you're knitting flat, exactly as you would on straights. Either way the bulk of your stitches sits on the cord and your hands only hold the tips.

Best for: jumpers, hats, cowls, shawls, blankets, and most flat knitting as well.

Interchangeable circular needles

These are similar to fixed circulars, except the tips screw on and off the cords. These often come in a set and you get a range of tip sizes plus a few cord lengths. You can then screw together whichever combination the pattern asks for.

Best for: anyone knitting regularly across a range of sizes and project types.

How do you choose a cable length?

This is the bit that catches people out. Cord length is measured tip to tip, with the needles included, and it needs to be shorter than the thing you're knitting in the round. Buy an 80cm circular for a hat and your stitches won't stretch far enough to meet, but try and use a 20cm for a jumper you will probably have too many stitches to fit on the cable.

Magic loop or double pointed needles?

When you're knitting something too small to go round a circular needle, a sock cuff or the top of a hat, you've got two choices, double pointed needles or magic loop.

Magic loop uses a single long circular, 80cm or 100cm. You pull a loop of the cord out through the middle of your stitches so they sit in two halves, then knit one half at a time. It is one of those things that sounds far more complicated written than it actually is. Most people only need one quick YouTube video to get their head around it.

Neither one is better, but most people very quickly figure out what their preference is. DPNs feel more direct and plenty of knitters find them faster. Magic loop means nothing can slide off and you only need the one needle. It is a good idea to try both and see which feels more comfortable and makes the most sense to you.

Needle sizes explained

In the UK, needle sizes are given in millimetres and measure the diameter of the needle. A 4mm needle is 4mm thick, it is that simple, and a recommended size will always be on the yarn label.

The confusion around needle sizes comes from older and imported patterns. The old UK numbering runs backwards, so a higher number is a thinner needle. American patterns use their own set of numbers running the opposite way, where a higher number is a thicker needle. If a pattern from your nan's old collection calls for a size 8, it might actually mean 4mm. If a pattern from a US website calls for a size 8, it actually means 5mm.

Sharp tips or blunt tips?

Tips vary between brands, and it's a detail you probably won't notice until you've finished a few projects and picked up a different pair of needles.

A sharper tip slips into stitches more easily, which helps a lot with lace, cables or anything asking you to work several stitches together. The catch is that it can split a loosely spun yarn if you come at the stitch slightly wrong.

A blunter, rounder tip is kinder to soft and loosely spun yarns, and more comfortable if you're someone who pushes against the needle with a fingertip as you go. It is a little slower if you are using it for fine details.

Which needles should you buy first?

If you're a complete beginner, one pair of straight needles in a middle size, such as 4mm or 5mm, is a great place to start. Cast on, work a few rows, and get used to what your hands are doing before you spend anything else. You can work some great first projects with these like a dishcloth, a coaster or even a scarf.

Once you've finished something and know you want to carry on with knitting, buy a circular in whatever size your next pattern asks for. It'll knit flat just as happily as a pair of straights, and it opens up hats and jumpers at the same time.

An interchangeable set is worth thinking about when you keep running into sizes you don't own. By that point the set costs less than buying the same needles one pair at a time, so will save you money in the long run. It can be a good idea to use a fixed circular from the brand and collection you like, to make sure it is the right choice for you before you commit to buying a set.

There's no need to buy a full range up front, and most people don't. A collection tends to build itself one project at a time, and the needles you end up reaching for will be the ones that suit how you knit.